Observations on the Road in West Africa

It is 0032hrs in Nairobi and 2132hrs in Lome, Togo.

I have just arrived at the hotel after a four hour journey from Accra, Ghana.

On this second trip to this part of West Africa, I am still amazed at how different these two neighbouring countries are.
The language: anglophone in Ghana and Francophone in Togo. The social economic status: it is "clean" and paved in Accra, organized as one heads into Aflao border town through the Volta region in Ghana: and dusty and busy across Afrlao into Lome in Togo.

The Immigration office on the Ghana side has uniformed staff, computers, desks and chairs for us emigrant. Immigration forms are filled in an air conditioned room that for the most part is as pleasant an atmospher as immigration in Africa can get. Today, in what I considered and exceptional situation, an immigration officer filled in my form. All he needed from me was a signature (and 2 cidis!!) But like I say, exceptional.

The crossover into Togo - it is easy to miss the Immigration desk.  Basically, the Immigration officer is a guy seated under a shed.  He was pleasant enough, and since Kenya and Togo diplomatic relations are not advanced, I have to pay CFA 15,000 (about USD 34) for a visa. As a Kenyan, and coming out of Ghana, the expectation to fill in an Immigration card. However, these are not necessary for entry into Togo. I only need to fill in a Visa Application. Thankfully, it is both in English and French. It turns out though that my ability to fill a form is limited as the Immigration officer has to make a few changes before he finally tells me "sign here" and he collects the CFA 15,000. I was hoping to see a cash box and receive a receipt. Instead, I got two (postage) stamps in my passport and several different ink stamps that filled one page of my passport. I gasped in shock with every stamp the Officer picked. There are an unbelievable number of stamps required to enter this small country.

Another big difference between Ghana and Togo are the vehicles. Both countries boast good road infrastructure, tarmac (asphalt) road network through major towns. However, in Accra there are high end motor vehicles. In Lome, this are less visible. Actually, the last time I was here (in May) I think I counted the number of BMWs because they stick out like a sore thumb.  The other significant difference is the public transport system.

In Ghana, there are the taxis and trotros. Like anywhere in the World, PSV drivers are somewhat crazy but it is all quite impressively organized in Accra and the Volta region where I drove through. In Togo, there are taxis but mostly there are motorcycles. Everywhere. There are motorcycles everywhere. In fact it is possible to imagine the roads were built for motorcycles rather than motor vehicles. They are everywhere. And at the traffic lights, they command the pride of place up front. They are everywhere.

I love the food - spicy, healthy portions for goat light soup and fufu; kelewele (fried plantain); banku and fried tilapia; and so much more tasty food that I cannot pronounce.

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